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哪里度长假最放松?这座小岛可以考虑

Regan Stephens 2019年09月29日

这座岛充满活力,但游客并不多。

波多黎各圣胡安老城。图片来源:Zen Rial—Getty Images

就算你还没去过图伦,身边同事(瑜伽教练或遛狗人)也可能去过。图伦是位于尤卡特恩半岛上的墨西哥海滨小镇,有古老的玛雅遗址,如今也因喧闹的夜生活和健康生活方式闻名。如果下一次出游想有更放松的体验,不妨往东边走走,去波多黎各的圣胡安。

圣胡安位于加勒比海地区,属于美国领土,海滩上非常热闹,有不少出售手工珠宝和古典草帽的精品店,可以品尝混合当地水果和香草的鸡尾酒,还能偶遇卖咸章鱼馅饼的海滨小摊。圣胡安跟图伦一样文化充满活力,也很悠闲,而且游客少得多。

这里简单介绍下在魅力之岛上吃喝住,以及观光的攻略。

If you haven’t yet been to Tulum, chances are your well-traveled coworker (or yoga instructor, or dog walker) has. The Mexican beach town on the Yucatán Peninsula is now known as much for its raucous nightlife and wellness community as it is for its ancient Mayan ruins. If you’d like your next getaway to be a little more stress-free, head east to San Juan, Puerto Rico.

The Caribbean island and U.S. territory has lively beaches, boutiques peddling handmade jewelry and vintage straw hats, cocktails mixed with locally grown fruit and herbs, and beachfront kiosks hawking salty octopus fritters. It has all of the vibrant culture and laid-back appeal of Tulum—but with far fewer crowds (and DJs). Plus, there’s no passport required.

Here is a primer on where to stay and what to eat, drink, and see on the Isle of Enchantment.

康达多·范德比尔特酒店的中心游泳池。图片来源:IHE Properties

住处

康达多·范德比尔特最初由范德比尔特家族建造(跟纽约中央车站是同一家建筑设计公司),今年将迎来百年庆典。历史悠久的海滨酒店保持着老派的精致和优质服务,又有现代化的便利设施,如游泳池和海滩管家,躺在海边躺椅即可不间断享用冰镇果味鸡尾酒,酒店里还有镶嵌木板和大理石的水疗中心、土耳其浴室,以及精选本地料理。(早餐可以品尝冷榨果汁、自制三文鱼配新鲜鸡蛋,还有甜品师做的番石榴蛋糕。)

Where to Stay

Originally built by the Vanderbilt family (and designed by the same architectural firm responsible for New York’s Grand Central Terminal), the Condado Vanderbilt celebrates its centennial this year. The historic, oceanfront property maintains its air of old-school sophistication and service while also offering modern amenities like pool and beach butlers who can deliver a steady stream of fruity frozen cocktails to your deck chair, a wood-paneled and marble spa with a Turkish bath, and meals with a focus on local ingredients. (For breakfast, try a cold-pressed juice, farm-fresh eggs with house-cured salmon, and guava pastelillos made by the pastry chef.)

康达多·范德比尔特酒店房间。图片来源:IHE Properties

修道院酒店之前真的是修道院,曾属卡迈尔教派,修建于1646年,坐落在圣胡安老城的鹅卵石街道上。如今酒店里有豪华套房、每日特供葡萄酒和奶酪,还有个室外游泳池。美丽的露天庭院中间有棵尼斯佩罗果树,阳台两旁绿树成荫,太阳伞下的小桌特别适合早晨品尝当地咖啡,中午可以喝当地花园里香草和水果调制的鸡尾酒。

Tucked away on a cobblestone street in Old San Juan, El Convento is a former Carmelite convent that dates back to 1646, now with luxury suites, a daily wine and cheese reception, and an outdoor plunge pool. The charming, open-air courtyard—with a nispero fruit tree growing at its center, greenery spilling over the sides of balconies above, and umbrella-topped tables—is the perfect spot to sip local coffee in the morning and return midday for a cocktail, made with herbs and fruit grown in the on-property garden.

修道院酒店。图片来源:IHE Properties

游玩

参观位于圣胡安老城西北角的圣费利佩·德尔·莫罗城堡时,可能会发现通向16世纪西班牙要塞的宽阔草坪上有很多家庭野餐放风筝。登顶世界遗产遗址欣赏圣胡安湾全景之前,不妨驻足欣赏几分钟。

之后可以花整个下午在历史悠久的街区小巷里漫步,欣赏西班牙殖民时期五颜六色的建筑,累了就在随处可见的街车旁停下,品尝新鲜的热带水果冰。如果住在康达多和佛得角,前往风景美丽的海滩十分方便。不要错过岛上东北部187号公路一段的路边小摊Pi?ones,出售特色小吃bacalaítos和alcapurrias (bacalaítos是用鳕鱼或芭蕉做的油炸馅饼,alcapurrias 则是碎牛肉做的油炸馅饼),而且可以边吃边欣赏壮观的大海。

What to Do

When you visit Castillo San Felipe del Morro, located on the northwestern point of Old San Juan, chances are the sprawling lawn leading up to the 16th-century Spanish fortress will be peppered with families picnicking and flying kites. Take a few minutes to soak in the scene before climbing to the top of the Unesco World Heritage site for panoramic views of San Juan Bay.

Afterward, spend an afternoon wandering through the alleyways and streets of the historic district, taking in the colorful Spanish colonial architecture and stopping for a refreshing tropical fruit ice from one of the ubiquitous street carts. Beaches in Condado and Isla Verde are beautiful and convenient if you’re staying in the area. But don’t miss Pi?ones, located on a stretch of Route 187 on the northeast part of the island, for the roadside kiosks selling deep-fried bacalaítos and alcapurrias (fritters made with cod or plantains and ground beef, respectively)—all with the same sweeping ocean backdrop.

图片来源:IHE Properties

如果安排去圣胡安郊外一日游,可西行约40分钟前往家庭农场Frutos del Guacabo,品尝罗望子和西红柿,还能跟家养兔子和山羊玩耍,了解该农场如何降低波多黎各对进口食品的依赖。(联系农场安排参观。)

在Santrece可参观波多黎各艺术博物馆,欣赏17世纪当地艺术家的作品,然后在博物馆外的街道漫步,欣赏公共艺术。该街区以充满活力且极具传奇色彩的拼制图案和壁画闻名。

For a day outside San Juan, head about 40 minutes west to the family-run farm Frutos del Guacabo to taste tamarind and tomatoes, pet rabbits and goats, and learn about its mission to make Puerto Rico less dependent on imported foods. (Contact the farm to arrange a tour.)

In Santurce, visit the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico for a look at works by local artists dating back to the 17th century, then stroll the streets outside to see public art. The neighborhood is known for its vibrant, larger-than-life mosaics and murals.

康达多·范德比尔特酒店的维利塔斯葡萄酒和干邑白兰地酒吧。图片来源:IHE Properties

品酒

鸡尾酒“椰林飘香”正是在此发明,但除了这款堪称热带地区代表的鸡尾酒,波多黎各的鸡尾酒文化其实深厚得多。可以前往曾多次被评为全世界最好的酒吧之一的La factoria,以调酒师技艺娴熟和完美的鸡尾酒着称,想必不会令你失望。而且酒吧里氛围相当亲切,服务风格热情又朴素,估计也会让人开眼界。(酒吧没有招牌,注意找圣塞巴斯蒂安街和圣何塞街拐角处那座楼。)

几步之外,啤酒花酒馆里有50种啤酒可随时享用,其中一些来自当地酿酒厂,例如Zurc Br?uhaus和Ocean Lab(Ocean Lab位于佛得角附近的酿酒厂开放参观)。在La Placita,丛林鸟酒吧里可以喝到口味精致的加勒比风格鸡尾酒,原料皆来自当地,例如百香果、椰奶和木槿,可爱的玻璃杯上插着小小的太阳伞。附近的El Bar Bero酒吧白天当理发店,晚上无缝过渡为鸡尾酒吧,头发自然成了酒水的主题料,例如用柑橘伏特加、接骨木浆果和自制黑莓蜜饯调出的“黑鱼”鸡尾酒,口感也如秀发般顺滑。

What to Drink

The pi?a colada was invented here, but with all due respect to the boozy tropical drink, Puerto Rico’s cocktail culture has far surpassed that claim to fame. That La Factoria—with its skilled bartenders and perfectly executed cocktails—has been named one of the world’s best bars more than once won’t surprise you in the least. That it maintains an intimate vibe and warm, unpretentious service just might. (The bar doesn’t have a sign, so look for the building on the corner of San Sebastián and San Jose streets.)

A few steps away, La Taberna Lúpulo offers 50 beers on tap, some from local breweries like Zurc Br?uhaus and Ocean Lab. (The latter is open for tours of its Isla Verde–neighborhood brewery.) In La Placita, Jungle Bird serves nuanced, Caribbean-inspired cocktails—made with local ingredients like passion fruit, coconut cream, and hibiscus—out of tiki glassware with tiny umbrellas. Nearby, El Bar Bero seamlessly transitions from barbershop by day to cocktail bar by night, and hair-themed drinks like the Mullet, made with citrus vodka, elderberry, and house-made blackberry preserves, prove just as smooth.

圣胡安老城。图片来源:IHE Properties

美食

虽然波多黎各85%以上的食物来自进口,但岛上1919家餐馆约75%的食材均为本岛出产。厨师胡安·何塞·奎瓦斯曾在纽约米其林餐厅蓝山工作,后来回到家乡,将专业厨艺和为当地农民贡献的热情结合起来,开发了佛手瓜沙拉配山羊奶酪,以及香蒜芝麻酱开心果手工意大利面配腌甜椒等。

其他美食包括圣胡安老城的果酱、获奖无数的葡萄酒、黑松露油白豆汤和引来狂热粉丝的培根粉,还有Santrece的Vianda,由夫妻二人弗朗西斯·古兹曼和阿米莉亚·迪尔经营。菜单不拘一格且随季节变化,主要突出本地特色,致敬波多黎各传统饮食,也融汇了全球风味,菜单上有天妇罗炸南瓜、蛋黄酱南瓜,还有当地椰子制成的椰子汤等。

同样在Santrece附近,Lote 23有16个食品摊聚集,有家摊叫“鸡舍”,专卖酪乳泡菜炸鸡三明治,还有家叫“帕莱特先生”的流行手工食品商店。(尝尝色彩鲜艳的特色果汁,如罗望子果汁,还有些奶油味重些,比如巧克力酱果汁。)可以跟萨布丽娜时髦的人们一起享受早午餐,既美味又上镜,然后去Café con Cé咖啡馆试试当地咖啡豆制成的咖啡。两家店都在Loiza街上。附近的Kasalta面包店里还有马洛卡火腿奶酪,用甜甜的面包卷夹着火腿和奶酪,再撒上厚厚一层糖粉,早晨或者中午可以买个尝尝,一定让你难忘。(365bet备用网址 8中文网)

译者:冯丰

审校:夏林

What to Eat

While upwards of 85% of Puerto Rico’s food is imported, approximately 75% of the ingredients on the plates at 1919 Restaurant come from the island. Chef Juan José Cuevas returned to his homeland after working at restaurants like the Michelin-starred Blue Hill in New York City, bringing his expert technique and passion for working with local farmers to dishes like chayote salad with goat cheese, and handmade pasta with arugula-pistachio pesto and pickled ají dulce (sweet pepper).

Other fine-dining options include Marmalade, in Old San Juan, with its award-winning wine list and a white bean soup with black truffle oil and pancetta dust that has a cult following, and Vianda, in Santurce, run by husband-and-wife duo Francis Guzmán and Amelia Dill. The eclectic, seasonally changing menu highlights local produce and gives a nod to traditional Puerto Rican recipes, while also infusing global flavors into dishes like tempura-fried pumpkin and squash with pique aioli and Tom Kha cod with local coconut.

Also in the Santurce neighborhood, 16 food kiosks make up Lote 23, including Hen House with buttermilk- and pickle-brined fried chicken sandwiches, and an outpost of artisanal pop shop Se?or Paleta. (Try the bright fruit juice flavors like tamarind, or creamier options like Nutella.) Join the stylish crowd at Sabrina for brunch as flavorful as it is photogenic, and Café con Cé for coffee made with locally grown beans, both on Calle Loiza. The Mallorca Jamón y Queso—a sweet roll filled with ham and cheese and dusted with a thick layer of powdered sugar—at neighborhood diner-bakery Kasalta makes for a memorable breakfast or lunch.

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